Image Groups
Click the long image.
Formats
Images are made with 35mm, 6x6cm, and 4x5 inch film formats. Nearly every scan is full frame; formats can be deduced by the image proportions - if format is significant to the viewer. Each of the three formats I’ve used offers its own characteristics, feel, and quality.
A 4x5 view camera yields obviously the largest negative size, and in some respects, especially tonality, the highest quality. One could say the same for sharpness, but other operating demands (tripod stability, natural elements during capture, such as wind) can work against this. Sheet film formats also allow for individual processing treatment of each exposure (frame), but also expose a large piece of sheet film (20 sq in) to physical injury during development, when vulnerable to even slight slips of the hand. The primary advantage of the view camera is the perspective control over the image itself. Being the slowest of the three for camera work, it takes the longest (tripod required), but forces a kind of attention and deliberation that often benefits clarity of image.
Medium format - The Rollei frame is square and usually a normal lens, bypassing the decision of vertical or horizontal and perspective consideration . Nice combination of sharpness and tonal quality over 35mm, and more mobility than the view camera. A dozen exposures is a good time to move to development and realization.
35mm format - the dominant global format today. Obviously the most mobile and convenient with quality in constant improvement by technology. There is something comfortable about the 2 x 3 format ratio which is broadly appealing, possibly because it mimics natural vision parameters.
Scans
The scans from which these images are made are between 16” and 20” on the short dimension, either square or longer in the long dimension. They are intended to be viewed at a larger scale, so the larger the computer display, the more you will understand, or feel, the intent of the image. Cell phone display would convey a rather wimpy representation of the work.
Prints
Most sites of art work have a method ,usually automated, for ordering individual pieces. I have delayed setting up this process because I would like to communicate with anyone wishing to own a print of my work, just to discover what it is about the work that appeals to the potential buyer. Think of it as feedback for me.
I have printed in the darkroom for many years, beginning in Japan with my teacher, in many darkrooms, with many papers, chemicals, enlargers, and purposes, becoming, I think, a good craftsman. My eventual technique was with split filter printing, and the silver fiber based papers available today are better than they ever have been. But I’ve developed Photoshop skills as well, especially in the graphic arts world. After some resistance to the idea, I’ve accepted that I could never control and finesse an image with traditional methods to the level that I can digitally. This is a large discussion, but essentially, my ability to achieve the emphasis I’m looking to communicate in any given image will be better accomplished digitally. I’ve also made direct comparisons of digital prints to silver prints. The dynamic range of a good digital paper compares favorably to a silver print today - that is to say, the basic paper is as white and the black of a good digital printer looks as deep (to me) as a silver black selenium toned (Ilford Multigrade papers in LPD). This is the dynamic range in my mind. The more sophisticated “editing” techniques of Photoshop makes the digital version a better image to me. Believe me, I still feel funny making that statement.
I have worked diligently with Hahnemuhle (whose paper I use for digital prints) and a local large format printer to produce prints that are quite true to the files, sized to the scans or smaller. Obviously, quality of match to the files as seen on a display depend upon the quality, brightness, and dynamic range of the display. I use exclusively Apple displays, desktop or laptop, and the consistency is reliable. No paper print can match the dynamic range of an electronic computer display, but the experience in context is equivalent. The best way to view an image on a computer display, no matter what kind of display you have, is to turn off most if not all of the lights in the room.
If interested in a print, please start by emailing me (see the bottom of the About page). I will respond quickly. I am also quite willing to make prints smaller than the scan size if desired.